Borneo Adventures II - Bako Nationalpark

When researching potential wildlife destinations in Southeast Asia, I discovered several vlogs about Bako National Park in the Malaysian part of Borneo. This park is renowned for its dramatic landscapes and for being a natural habitat for endangered species, especially the highly endangered proboscis monkeys. The idea of visiting such a unique place was incredibly enticing, so I decided to plan a trip. My experience at Bako National Park was nothing short of amazing, pushing me to my physical limits. It also underscored an important lesson: wildlife sightings in nature are never guaranteed.

Where is it

Bako National Park is located in the Malaysian state of Sarawak, on the island of Borneo. It lies approximately 37 kilometers (23 miles) northeast of Kuching, the state capital. Kuching serves as the perfect hub for discovering the Western part of this huge island. Bako is situated on the Muara Tebas peninsula at the northern tip of the Bako River, where it meets the South China Sea. Covering an area of about 27 square kilometers (10 square miles), Bako National Park features a diverse landscape that includes mangrove swamps, rain forests, heath forests, and coastal cliffs. This variety of habitats supports a rich biodiversity, making Bako one of the premier destinations for wildlife enthusiasts in Borneo.

How to get here?

Kuching is accessible via flights from all major airports in Southeast Asia, making it a convenient gateway to Bako National Park. The city offers a wide range of accommodations, numerous food options, and interesting sights to explore. To reach Bako National Park from Kuching, you can take a taxi or the local bus, both of which provide a 45-minute ride to Bako Village (Kampung Bako). Once at Bako Village, you can charter a boat at the terminal for the 30-minute journey to the Park Headquarters. While you pay for the entire boat, you can save on costs by sharing the fare with fellow travelers. The boat ride itself is an adventure, offering stunning views and a taste of the park's natural beauty. Upon arrival at Bako National Park, all visitors are required to register at the Park Headquarters. This registration is essential for ensuring safety and managing park resources effectively. It is possible to stay overnight in the National Park, bookings can be made on https://bakonationalpark.my/

Highlights

Primates (proboscis monkeys, macaques, langurs), Borneo bearded pigs, bird life, snakes & crocodiles. 12 different hiking trails with stunning landscapes and view points. Guided tours and night safaris (frogs & spiders) are available if you stay overnight.

The Experience

It was an early start for me. Since I couldn’t find a room for an overnight stay in the national park, I had to make the most of my day at Bako. When I reached the terminal, I was lucky enough to find four other travelers. We shared a small boat and embarked on our journey to the Bako HQ. The trip along the Sungai Tabo River felt like a real adventure. We passed several fishing villages with their colorful houses and dense mangrove jungles before reaching the river's mouth and the open sea. These waters are the lifeblood of local fishermen but also harbor crocodiles and sharks.

During the boat trip, I had my first spectacular sighting: a white-bellied sea eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster). This impressive bird, with its distinctive white head and rump, glided along the shore before landing on a tree overlooking the sea. One of the largest eagles in the world, it boasts wingspans of over two meters. Unfortunately, my zoom lens wasn’t powerful enough to capture a good shot of this majestic raptor.

Before landing on the beaches of Bako, we made a small detour to admire some sea stacks. The most notable one, called "The Cobra Head" due to its snake-like appearance, was a highlight. I later learned that this unique rock formation was destroyed by waves a year after my trip, making me feel incredibly fortunate to have seen it when I did.

The landing on the beach was one of the most memorable parts of this trip. You jump out of the boat into the shallow sea water and walk the last bits to the sandy beach. The air is filled with sounds of the jungle, it was hot and humid and you feel the excitement building up while you walk towards the Bako HQ, which appears within the thick scrubs of the forest. At Bako HQ you find some refreshments and food. Guides are present to answer all your quesitions and on a huge map you can see the numerous trails that take you deeper into the park. After a brief break, I decided to do two trails. A shorter one through the coastal forest to a beach and the longest one, which should take me trough different sceneries to the most famous view point of the park.

The first part of the trail was leading past the sea and mangroves into the dense forest. Along the way I spotted an interesting primate species - the silvered leaf monkey (Trachypithecus cristatus). A little group of these as vulnerable classified monkeys were eating some leaves and were not disturbed by the increasing group of observer's at all.The silvered leaf monkey belongs to the family of langurs, which are spread in many species different species throughout Southeast Asia. They specialize in eating leaves, therefore rely on dense tropical forests. As the forests disappear due to human activity, so do the langurs, making them one of the most endangered group of mammals in the world.

As I ventured deeper into the jungle, the trail became increasingly challenging. Steep sections, tangled roots, and overhanging branches obstructed the path, with the added possibility of encountering venomous snakes or large spiders. The oppressive humidity and temperatures soaring around 40°C added to the difficulty. Despite these obstacles, I found the hikes exhilarating.

After a while, I crossed paths with the fellow travelers I had shared the boat with earlier. We decided to continue the trail together, our shared determination driving us forward. Time seemed to stretch as we trekked on, but eventually, we reached the end of the trail—a hidden sandy beach meeting the open sea. The view was breathtaking.

On the beach, I discovered a large group of mudskippers. These fascinating creatures were abundant, but as soon as I approached, they leapt away into the water. The sight of these unique fish was another hightlight wildlife sighting! They live an amphibious lifestyle and can survive prolonged periods out of the water. They are very common in mangrove areas.

We returned to the common starting point of the trails and decided to venture to the famous cliff viewpoint at the end of the park's longest trail. We hoped to encounter more of the park's wildlife, especially the elusive proboscis monkeys, but were disappointed. Despite the lack of wildlife sightings, the landscape was awe-inspiring.

The jungle portion of the trail was steep and uphill, demanding significant effort and mutual support as we navigated the challenging terrain. After a strenuous climb, we emerged into open woodland dominated by scrub vegetation. These areas, known as heath forests, are a distinctive feature of Borneo.

The flora of this area was definitely worth observing, but the trek was so challenging that it was hard to focus on our surroundings. We took several breaks, but our water supply dwindled over time. After several grueling 2 hours, we finally reached our destination: a cliff offering a spectacular view of the sea. The hardship and struggles were absolutely worth it.

We took a long break here, drank our last water reserves, and captured photos and videos of the breathtaking scenery before starting our journey back. This moment of rest and reflection at the cliff made all the effort worthwhile, marking a perfect end to our adventurous hike in Bako National Park.

The trail back was equally challenging, but since much of it was downhill, we made faster progress. As we neared the Bako HQ, we were fortunate to encounter a few more fascinating wildlife sightings.

First, we spotted a Sunda flying lemur (Galeopterus variegatus), also known as a colugo. These intriguing mammals are strictly arboreal, adept at climbing and gliding between trees. They are found only in Southeast Asia and are not kept in captivity, making this sighting particularly special.Just beside it, we noticed a bright green snake—a Borneo keeled pit viper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus). This venomous snake, known for preying on birds and small mammals, was camouflaged in the canopy. It took keen eyes to spot this elusive creature perched right above the trail, just over our heads!

Once we reached the Bako HQ, we grabbed some beverages and took a long break to regain our strength. As I wandered outside for one last look at the forest, I spotted a monitor lizard. This creature was hanging around the HQ, likely drawn by the food scraps left behind by other visitors. Our boat was waiting for us at the jetty, ready to take us back to the terminal near Kuching. At the terminal we waited for the bus back to the city. Since busses in these regions do not really follow the schedules, we waited a long time. I used the opportunity to visit some fishermen shacks nearby and could see first hand, what creatures live in the waters around Bako. Stingrays, crabs, and all sort of fish were sold here. While waiting for the bus, I also got a glimpse of another beautiful inhabitant of Bako Nationalpark - the Oriental pied-hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris).

This marked the end of an unforgettable adventure. The journey had pushed me to my limits, but every wildlife encounter and spectacular view made the exhaustion worthwhile. Later that day, I met up with my fellow travelers in Kuching for dinner. We reminisced about our shared experiences and the incredible journey we had undertaken. It was an amazing experience for all of us, leaving lasting memories of our time in Bako Nationalpark.

Advice for visiting Bako National Park

During the following days in Kuching, I had the opportunity to talk to other travelers who had visited Bako National Park. Most of them had seen the proboscis monkeys, which had eluded me during my trip. The secret, I learned, is to stay close to the HQ, where animals often come in search of food. Similarly, Borneo bearded pigs are frequently found near the HQ.
Unfortunately, I couldn't stay overnight in the park, missing out on the highly recommended night safaris with a guide. These safaris are a must-do, as many of the rainforest's inhabitants, such as snakes, spiders, frogs, and toads, are more active at night. Accommodations range from dorm-style rooms to spacious one- to two-person rooms.
When planning your visit, avoid overloading your schedule with too many hikes. The trails are challenging and require physical fitness, as you need to walk and climb long distances in heat and high humidity. Always carry plenty of water.
For a budget-friendly stay in Kuching, I recommend the Marco Polo Guest House. It's an excellent option for backpackers, centrally located with knowledgeable hosts who can provide valuable insights about the area and available tours.